Full Dynamic Range App & our book!

book covers

http://fdrtools.com/fdrtools_basic_e.php

Ok, so what does Full Dynamic Range mean?

Sometimes they are called High Dynamic Range Images, or HDRI…The word “FULL” is just another variant of “High”…

So what is an HDRI? Or a FDRI?

Ok, so what it basically means is that, for example, you put your camera on a tripod & took a picture of your kitchen…

Then you changed the exposure setting, to much brighter & took the same picture…

Then you lowered the exposure to darker & took another picture…

All the pictures are in the exact same position, just different exposures…

Ok, so then you download FDR app, which is free for the Basic one…

Then open the program & click “Images”, “Open” & choose your three pictures of your kitchen at 3 different settings…

The app loads them in, then choose “Align”…This makes sure they are lined up as well as possible…

From there you can tweak all sorts of settings if you want…But if you just want your Full Dynamic Range image, choose “Save” & you are good to go…

Now in the picture above, I messed around a bit…I did use 3 pictures of the front cover of the book, but I also had a 4th picture, of the back of the book…

So you get sort of a ghostly image of the back cover seeping through the front cover…This was an accident actually, but I thought it was neat so I posted it…

Generally speaking you might use the FDR image app to show a scene or object in a more intense way-having all the range of exposures really shows the image better & in more depth…

Or you can have fun with it & put layers over layers, using a slightly different image…Interesting effect eh?

Tip: If you Google Free HDRI images you can get some to download & take a look at how cool they are…

http://www.aversis.be/hdri/hdri-free-monthly-hdr-map.htm 042-lussan-street-shade

Tip2: Try taking 3 different exposures of your work of art & making an FDR image with those…Can make your works of art look more intense & also show the full range of colours that may be hidden with the single exposure photos…

Oh, the book, is free to read now, at http://www.grovecanada.ca …(I did a french translation version which can be downloaded-I used Google translate, so it ain’t perfect, but better than I could do myself I think…)

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Recent Comment by Sari on our Facebook Page…

Like us here to get more juicy comments like this! http://facebook.com/sarigrove

This Comment is about pricing works of art:

“Ok for me every piece is different, so I don’t like to use a formula across the board…It is very useful to track things, a pen & paper & a clock…You need to write down all your material costs…

Track the time it took to make the work…This gives you a starting place…A bare minimum cost price…You spent 200 dollars on materials & worked for 8 hours…If your minimum wage is say 10 dollars per hour, then your bare minimum to get costs back is like 280 bucks…

Now you start adding things to that number…Overhead is a weird one…But throw in a number…Now are you selling directly or are you paying someone (gallery) to sell for you?

Depending on how many levels a collector has to go through to buy your work, artists will multiply their base number by 1(selling directly no change), 2 (starting out with a gallery), 3(already been to the party & sells well) or more…Now, write those numbers down, each one for each case…Look at them…Which number are you? At that point, there is a “feel” to the numbers…

Ok now if you are with a venue or gallery, go see how other artists are pricing there…

If your numbers are way off theirs then either you are in the wrong place or your numbers need to be modified…

Now you end up with some number you like that sounds fair & reasonable but you still make a profit…

Ok, so you have your low minimum & your high I want to get that number…

Know those two numbers…If you are selling directly, & a collector wants one particular piece, then you have a range…

If your low is 280 & your high is 840, & the collector has exactly 600 dollars to spend, then you then know that you can do that…

I have found that everyone has their own numbers (the collector), & that it pays to be aware of that & your own so you can bargain if need be…I use a range…

If I stick on one high number, I will have people walking away…Now if you work with a gallery, they do this for you…

They bargain…They will ask your permission to do so…I always say yes…Now I don’t bargain if I have pre-set the number to something low…

The longer you work, the more likely they are to just pay your high number without asking…

Remember: Each work of art is unique & different…Pricing by formula makes it seem that they are all the same…

But each one took longer or shorter, took more materials or less, or you used gold foil on one, or you had to learn a new technique for one-so just because a collector got one price for one work doesn’t mean that they get the same price for a different work…

It also depends on how much you want to make the sale, where is the work going (a museum?), & so on…(take all this with a grain of salt please!)”…

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